SUIT STYLES: THE AMERICAN CUT

Harioms_American_Suit_Style

The 1920s in New York had a significant influence on a large group of dominant and wealthy businessmen. Companies, like Brooks Brothers for example – who are considered among the pioneers of the American suit, reinvented the suit in order to make it suitable for mass production. And we see these elements loud and clear just by having a quick attentive look at the American suit.

Often dubbed as the sack suit, the American cut is loosely-fitted, giving its wearer a soft silhouette. “Sack,” though, did not refer to the suit’s bagginess, but to a traditional French construction technique. Rather than forming the jacket’s back from four curved pieces of fabric, as was standard for formal wear, a ‘sacque’ coat was made using only two, straight panels. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically ‘boxy’ look.

Traditionally, sack suits are single vented, without shoulder padding, and without darts, also known as folds that are sewn into a suit jacket’s canvas layer to increase the three-dimensionality of its elements, like lapels. Darts generally create a more ‘tailored’ look. The suit is best paired with full cut pants without pleats.