SUIT STYLES: THE AMERICAN CUT

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The 1920s in New York had a significant influence on a large group of dominant and wealthy businessmen. Companies, like Brooks Brothers for example – who are considered among the pioneers of the American suit, reinvented the suit in order to make it suitable for mass production. And we see these elements loud and clear just by having a quick attentive look at the American suit.

Often dubbed as the sack suit, the American cut is loosely-fitted, giving its wearer a soft silhouette. “Sack,” though, did not refer to the suit’s bagginess, but to a traditional French construction technique. Rather than forming the jacket’s back from four curved pieces of fabric, as was standard for formal wear, a ‘sacque’ coat was made using only two, straight panels. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically ‘boxy’ look.

Traditionally, sack suits are single vented, without shoulder padding, and without darts, also known as folds that are sewn into a suit jacket’s canvas layer to increase the three-dimensionality of its elements, like lapels. Darts generally create a more ‘tailored’ look. The suit is best paired with full cut pants without pleats.

SUIT STYLES: THE BRITISH CUT

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When London’s wealthy flocked to Savile Row, a street inLondon’s Mayfair district world-famous for its bespoke tailors, a distinctly British suit style was born.

An English cut suit is a highly structured and tailored garment. Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suiting has a far more ‘fitted’ look than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of American style. Higher armholes made for closer-fitting sleeves. More elaborate, and expensive, construction lent the British suit a tapered waist. Lightly padded-shoulders, probably borrowed from highly-stylized military uniforms. And side vents garnered from a rich equestrian history that, by the time American suiting had solidified into a ‘style,’ was out-moded.

The garment is definitely better suited for on heavier fabrics such as tweeds, heavy woolen blazers and suit fabrics which are generally on the greater GSM side. You can also see it single, or double breasted, with usually two vents. The suit is best paired with high waisted pants with single or double pleats.

Summed up in one word, the English suit is elegant. It is a true gentleman’s cut.

SUIT STYLES: THE ITALIAN CUT

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Ermenegildo Zegna, Armani, Nazareno Fonticoli - are some of the many names who have significantly impacted the design of the Italian suit. With a slim and stylish design to reflect the nature of the Italians, the Italian cut plays on the smaller waist of the average European man to create a dramatic inverted triangle. This lends itself to both an image of power and the impression that you know fashion.

The Italian suit is characterised by the high buttons, padded shoulders, very slim and tailored waists, and the absence of pocket flaps and vents. They pair best with pants with a tapered waist, tight hips and no breaks.

The Italian suit works better for any man who’s small-framed, as many Italian men are. Short, thin guys are well-served by the characteristically short jacket and high buttoning stance of Italian suits, and thin men look sharper in their slimmer fit.

It is the suit for the sartorially inclined, modern man; guaranteed to set you apart from everyone else in the room. It is a suit that will get you noticed and a suit which gets appreciated.

THE HARIOMS GUIDE TO SUITS


You button up into one of those suits, and it’s like, ‘Okay, there’s a certain way that I feel. I feel confident. I feel put together. I feel great-looking.’
— Jon Hamm, Mad Men

Every man should own a great suit. No exceptions. And while a great suit will make you feel (and look) sharp, world-wise, and sophisticated, a bad one will make you look like a hack, so it helps to know a thing or two about buying, wearing, and caring for the one you choose.

Our suit guide is here to help you find a great suit, at whatever price you choose to pay, that’ll make you look smart, handsome, and ready to take on the world.

Step 1: What Suits You?

Let's start with the basics. If you need a suit but don't know which kind of suit is right for you and your life. Buying a new suit doesn't start in the store; it starts in your head. Is the suit for work? Date night? A buddy's wedding? All three? Is this your first and only suit or your thirteenth suit, intended for a special occasion? Know that and you can make the right choices, starting with color. Your best bet is to opt for one in a solid true navy blue or charcoal gray. Both colors— menswear designers' go-to neutrals—work with every shirt-and-tie combo you can think of and a whole lot more (denim shirts, T-shirts, fine gauge knits). They're the standard. 

There's also black, Not for daytime wear and not as foolproof as you think. You imagine The Strokes, but you might end up with security guard. If you decide to go for black, make everything as skinny as possible. You won’t look like a maitre d’ if the cut of the suit is aggressively cool.

If you want to go bolder than solid colors, your best option is going the plaid suit route. Wearing a plaid or check suit is going to get you noticed and remembered—that’s the point. Make sure you stay out of overkill territory by keeping yours to one of the trusty menswear neutrals we just talked about (that would be gray, navy, and black).

And for the purposes of getting the most style miles out of your next suit, go for one in a light-to-mid-weight wool. It's the most common suit fabric. Good for work. Good for job interviews. Good for pretty much everything.

Step 2: Make the Cut

Once you have a color and/or pattern in mind, the next step in your sartorial decision-making process is to decide on the type of suit you want. 

The first and perhaps most noticeable element of a man’s suit is whether the jacket is single or double-breasted. Single-breasted suit jackets (right) have a single row of buttons down the front, with the jacket flaps overlapping enough to permit buttoning. Single-breasted jackets are 100 percent approved and always will be. Most of the suits in your arsenal should be single-breasted.

But if you’re the kind of daredevil who wants to give 110 percent, step up to a double-breasted jacket (left). A double-breasted suit jacket has two rows of buttons, with the front overlapping sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. It comes slim and trim, without the shoulder pads and droopy fits so is a better option for thinner gentlemen, in particular those who are somewhat taller. We like it because it projects an air of power and confidence.

Step 3: Add the Details

Before you start getting OCD about the size and fit of your suit, you should decide what style of suit you want. And that’s all about the construction. Two buttons or three? (Answer: almost always two.) Notch or peak lapel? (Depends on the image you’re trying to project.) What about a paisley lining on the inside of your suit? The details make the suit. Let the following info be your guide to not screwing this suited thing up before you’ve started.

If you go the single-breasted suit route, your next course of action is to figure out the button stance that's best for you. All or most of your suits should be two-button suits. This is the modern standard. One-button suits are good for formal, nighttime suits. Unless you are an advanced suit-buyer, don’t go for a three-button suit unless the third button is hidden behind a “roll” of the lapel—an Italian move—so it actually looks like a two-button suit.

Next we're moving on to lapels. There are two types most common in everyday suits and they're names are peak (because they jut up and out toward your shoulder, ending in a point) and notch (self explanatory). Going with a notch lapel is like ordering the roast chicken: it's a total fail-safe. A peak lapel is flashier and more formal a brasher, Euro-bred power move compared to the standard notch.

Don't ignore the back of the jacket. It plays an integral role in a suit's character. Most suits have rakish double vents these days, but the single vent is still a classic. No vent = no dice. Put that thing back on the rack.

You also need to consider your suit's pockets. The most common example of suit pockets in the wild are flap pockets, featuring a rectangular flap of fabric that hangs about two inches over the front of the pocket. Patch pockets were originally found on sporting jackets and are stitched to the outside of the jacket, not the inside. The sartorial net effect is that they give off a more casual, utilitarian vibe. Besom pockets are found on more formal jackets and tuxedos and have no flap. They're super-clean and mean but not right for the office.

Step 4: Make it Fit

No matter how much it costs, a suit is only as good as its tailoring. Fit is everything. Once you’ve decided you want a two-button, single-breasted suit with a notch lapel, a double vent, and flap pockets (nice choosin’—it sounds like a winner), you’re ready to focus all your attention here. It doesn’t matter if your suit costs $500 or $5,000; if the thing fits like a garbage bag, it won’t look good. If you hang your arms loose at your sides, your fingers should be able to easily cup the bottom hem of your suit jacket. Any shorter and you’ll look like a doll. Longer and you’ll look like an undertaker. Here's how the rest should fit:

Your Shoulders: A tailor can't fix a bunk, saggy shoulder, so make sure the seam ends right at the outside of yours. You want military precision here. Also: Most guys overestimate their jacket size. Think you're a 42? Try a 40. Still got room to move? Try on a 38. When you put on a size that’s definitely too small, go back up a step. That’s your suit jacket.

Your Chest: With the jacket buttoned, the lapels should lie flat on your chest. If they bow out, you need a different size or a different brand. The modern Harioms way is to keep the lapels moderately narrow. We like a slim tie, slim lapels, and a small-collar dress shirt, so everything is in sync. For the record, the rule of thumb on lapel size goes like this: Big, wide lapels are for alpha men and skinny lapels are for slick rock-’n’-rollers. Generally speaking, the rest of us should fall somewhere in between.

Around Your Torso: With the jacket buttoned, slide your thumb between the button and your gut. If your thumb is snug, good. If it's a little loose, you’ll need to have your tailor take the jacket in a bit in the back.

Your Arms: They should hug your actual arms, closely following your natural lines, and stop in time to show a half-inch of shirt cuff. But don't worry too much about the length or width while you’re at the store: Any decent tailor can sort out both the length and any excess bagginess. Just make sure you have your tailor take a careful look once you’ve bought the suit. Most guys—and many tailors—don’t consider whether they should have the arms of a suit slimmed down. They almost always should.

Your Pants: Fasten your pants at your natural waist (about an inch below your navel). Too loose? You know what to do: Talk to your tailor. One more oft-misunderstood/neglected step: If there’s too much fabric through the leg (i.e., if you can grab a fistful), ask a tailor to taper your pants. It’ll create a cleaner, slimmer line like those you see in the pages of our fine magazine. These days, we want our suit pants to fit like our jeans, and the key to that look is a tapered leg.

Your Pant Hems Most suits will come with long, unfinished hems. Get them tailored to hover just above your shoes, or right on top of your shoes—no longer. And don’t be afraid to ask if the store will do it gratis.

Creating Your Harioms Bespoke Suit

Creating Your Harioms Bespoke Suit

Harioms is passionate about tailoring high quality garments and delivering a new standard of bespoke suits in the region. Harioms Tailor is located in Pasar Baru, Jakarta. Indonesia.